Pore minimizer

ABSTRACT

Described herein are compositions that contract and reduce pore size. The compositions of the disclosure are also useful for collagen contraction of the skin, calming skin, and reducing oil on the skin. The compositions comprise cosmetic ingredients such as glycerin; cyclopentasiloxane; polysilicone-11; pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate; dipropylene glycol; methyl methacrylate crosspolymer; betaine; bis-PEG/PPG-16/PPG-16/16 PEG/16 dimethicone; Albizia julibrissin bark extract; Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract; hydrolyzed soy flour; sea whip extract; and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No.62/023,387 filed Jul. 11, 2014, the contents of which are incorporatedinto the present application by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A. Field of the Invention

The present invention generally relates to methods and compositionsuseful for minimizing pore size or the appearance thereof.

B. Description of Related Art

Mammalian skin is characterized by thousands of pores which function asopenings for sebaceous (oil-producing) and sudoriferous(sweat-producing) glands and hair follicles. Pores generally serve asopenings for the secretion of glandular products such as sebum, andorifices for externally applied substances, including lotions, creams,and cosmetics. Skin pores are large and numerous on the face and scalp,areas of maximum exposure. For facial areas, the density ranges from 400to 800 pores/cm², compared with about 50 pores/cm² on the arms and legs.The forehead, nose, and nasolabial folds are the areas of highest poreconcentration.

Pores have a defined size which is susceptible to measurement. Pore sizeis largely determined by genetic, environmental, and physiologicalfactors. Visible pore diameter is often proportional to the size ofsubcutaneous sebaceous glands, and increased pore size is frequentlyassociated with hyperactive sebaceous glands, including increasedglandular activity and higher sebum production that occurs inadolescence, and with debris accumulation such as that observed inaging, when sebum production slows sufficiently to inhibit the constantstratum corneum shedding of normal youthful skin. Hyperactive sebaceousglands generate larger amounts of sebum which expands the pilary canaland dilates pore diameter to accommodate greater internal pressure. Theaging process causes deterioration of the dermal elements surroundingthe follicle. These changes are manifested by internal collapse ofsupporting skin structure and expansion of the follicular canal,resulting in pore dilation and greater visibility on the skin surface.The visual appearance of skin pores also partially depends upon thetexture of surrounding surfaces. Rough skin scatters light in a mannerwhich emphasizes openings on the skin surface, so pores appear larger.

Current treatments for enlarged pores are directed primarily to cleaningthe skin to facilitate sebum and debris removal. Frequent washing isrecommended for persons with oily skin, and washing with skin cleanerscontaining hydrating agents for persons with normal and dry skin. Sebumproduction is commonly curbed using drying agents such as alcohol andbenzoyl peroxide.

It would be desirable to have alternative treatments for reducing skinpore size and improving overall skin appearance, particularlycompositions that physically contract pores rather than just clean them.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention overcomes deficiencies in the art by providingcompositions that contract and reduce pore size. The compositions of thedisclosure are also useful for collagen contraction of the skin, calmingskin, and reducing oil on the skin.

In one aspect, there is disclosed a composition comprising: Albiziajulibrissin bark extract; Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract; hydrolyzedsoy flour; sea whip extract; and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.In some embodiments, the composition further comprises: glycerin;cyclopentasiloxane; polysilicone-11; pentaerythrityltetraethylhexanoate; dipropylene glycol; methyl methacrylatecrosspolymer; betaine; and bis-PEG/PPG-16/PPG-16/16 PEG/16 dimethicone.Alternatively, one or any combination said ingredients can be used inthe compositions of the present invention. The amounts of theingredients within the composition can vary (e.g., amounts can be as lowas 0.000001% to as high as 80% w/w or any ranger therein). The vehiclemay be any vehicle described herein and/or known in the art. In someembodiments, the composition is an emulsion, cream, lotion, solution,anhydrous base, or gel. In further embodiments, the composition is asolution. In some embodiments, the composition further comprises asolvent. The solvent may be a solvent known in the art or describedherein. In some embodiments, the solvent is selected from one or more ofisododecane, octyldodecanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, alcohol,denatured alcohol, propanediol, isohexadecane, ceteareth-33,1,2-hexanediol, and water. In some embodiments, the compositioncomprises 0.1 to 1% by weight of Albizia julibrissin bark extract; 0.01to 0.5% by weight of Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract; 0.01 to 0.5% byweight of hydrolyzed soy flour; and 0.001 to 0.05% by weight of sea whipextract. In some embodiments, the composition further comprises: 3 to10% by weight of glycerin; 2 to 8% by weight of cyclopentasiloxane; 1 to6% by weight of polysilicone-11; 1 to 6% by weight of pentaerythrityltetraethylhexanoate; 1 to 6% by weight of dipropylene glycol; 1 to 6% byweight of methyl methacrylate crosspolymer; 0.5 to 4% by weight ofbetaine; and 0.5 to 4% by weight of bis-PEG/PPG-16/PPG-16/16 PEG/16dimethicone. In some embodiments, the composition comprises an effectiveamount of Albizia julibrissin bark extract capable of preventingglycation, reducing cutaneous signs of fatigue, reducing dark circles,reducing under eye bags, reducing dull complexion, reducing drawnfeatures, supporting detoxifying of a glyoxalase and/or proteasomesystem, and/or protecting and repairing proteic structures damaged byglycation. In some embodiments, the composition comprises an effectiveamount of Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract capable of reducinginflammation, reducing nociceptic pain, inhibiting PGE2, and/or reducingvasodilation. In some embodiments, the composition comprises aneffective amount of hydrolyzed soy flour capable of reorganizingcollagen fibers and/or protecting elastin from enzymatic degradation. Insome embodiments, the composition comprises an effective amount of seawhip extract capable of reducing redness in skin, reducing inflammation,reducing the number of bacteria, reducing vaso-dilation, and/orneutralizing phospholipase A2. In some embodiments the compositioncomprises an effective amount of Albizia julibrissin bark extract,Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract, hydrolyzed soy flour, and/or sea whipextract capable of reducing the size and/or appearance of pores,tightening skin, calming skin, and/or reducing skin oil. The compositionmay further comprise one or more ingredients described herein. Forexample, the composition may comprise one or more additional ingredientsselected from one or more preservatives, emulsifiers, conditioningagents, thickening agents, fragrances, moisturizing agents, chelatingagents, structuring agents, and colorants.

The compositions of the disclosure can be applied at least once, twice,three, four, or more times a day. Once applied, the composition canremain on the skin for at least 10, 20, 30, or 60 minutes, 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12 hours, or longer. The compositions can alsoinclude any one of or any combination of cosmetic and/or pharmaceuticalingredients disclosed in this specification. For instance, compositionscan include ingredients from at least one, two, three, four, five, six,seven, eight, nine, and/or ten of the following categories: (1) UVabsorption agents; (2) moisturizing agents; (3) antioxidants; (4)structuring agents; (5) emulsifiers; (6) silicone containing compounds;(7) essential oils (8) thickening agents; (9) preservatives; and/or (10)conditioning agents. The amounts of such ingredients can range from0.0001% to 99.9% by weight or volume of the composition, or any integeror range in between as disclosed in other sections of thisspecification.

It is also contemplated that the viscosity of the compositions can beselected to achieve a desired result (e.g., depending on the type ofcomposition desired, the viscosity of such composition can be from about1 cps to well over 1 million cps or any range or integer derivabletherein (e.g., 2 cps, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70,80, 90, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000,4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 20000, 30000, 40000, 50000,60000, 70000, 80000, 90000, 100000, 200000, 300000, 400000, 500000,600000, 700000, 800000, 900000, 1000000, cps, etc., as measured on aBrookfield Viscometer using a TC spindle at 2.5 rpm at 25° C.). Thecompositions in non-limiting aspects can have a pH of about 6 to about9. In other aspects, the pH can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11,12, 13, or 14. In other aspects, the compositions can be sunscreenshaving a sun protection factor (SPF) of 1, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35,40, 45, 50, 55, or more. The compositions can be sunscreen lotions,sprays, or creams. In particular aspects, the compositions can beoil-free, substantially anhydrous, and/or anhydrous. Other aspectsinclude compositions having water.

Also disclosed are methods for using the compositions described herein.One aspect of the disclosure relates to a method for reducing skin poresize and/or appearance thereof comprising applying the composition ofthe disclosure to the skin.

A further method aspect relates to a method for tightening skin, calmingskin, and/or reducing oil comprising applying a composition of thedisclosure to the skin

In some embodiments, the skin is cleansed prior to application of thecomposition. The compositions of the skin may be used after cleansingthe skin and/or before the application of make-up to the skin. Thecompositions may be used on a daily basis for an extended period oftime, such as, for example, every day for a week, every day for twoweeks, every day for a month, every day for six months, every day for ayear, or more. In certain aspects, the composition is applied to theskin and remains on the skin for at least 5, 10, 15, 30, or moreminutes, or 1, 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, or 24 hours after topical application.The composition can be applied to leg skin, arm skin, torso skin, orskin in the pelvic region.

Additionally, the compositions can also be used to treat or prevent avariety of skin conditions. For instance, the compositions can be usedto treat or prevent a fine line or wrinkle, erythema, sensitive skin, orinflamed skin. In particular aspects, erythema, sensitive skin, orinflamed skin is caused by skin sunburn, electrical treatments of skin,skin burns, contact allergies, systemic allergies, skin toxicity,exercise, insect stings, bacterial infection, viral infection, fungalinfection, protozoa infection, massage, or windburn. In other aspects,the following additional skin conditions can be treated or prevented inaccordance with the methods and compositions disclosed throughout thespecification and claims: pruritus, lentigo, spider veins, age spots,senile purpura, keratosis, melasma, blotches, nodules, sun damaged skin,dermatitis (including, but not limited to seborrheic dermatitis,nummular dermatitis, contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, exfoliativedermatitis, perioral dermatitis, and stasis dermatitis), psoriasis,folliculitis, rosacea, acne, impetigo, erysipelas, erythrasma, eczema,and other inflammatory skin conditions. In certain non-limiting aspects,the skin condition can be caused by exposure to UV light, age,irradiation, chronic sun exposure, environmental pollutants, airpollution, wind, cold, heat, chemicals, disease pathologies, smoking, orlack of nutrition. The skin can be facial skin or non-facial skin (e.g.,arms, legs, hands, chest, back, feet, etc.). The method can furthercomprise identifying a person in need of skin treatment. The person canbe a male or female. The age of the person can be at least 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75,80, 85, 90, 95, or more years old, or any range derivable therein. Themethod can also include topically applying an amount effective to:increase the stratum corneum turnover rate of the skin; increasecollagen synthesis in fibroblasts; increase cellular anti-oxidantdefense mechanisms (e.g., exogenous additions of anti-oxidants canbolster, replenish, or prevent the loss of cellular antioxidants such ascatalase and glutathione in skin cells (e.g., keratinocytes,melanocytes, langerhans cells, etc.) which will reduce or preventoxidative damage to the skin, cellular, proteins, and lipids); inhibitmelanin production in melanocytes; reduce or prevent oxidative damage toskin (including reducing the amount lipid peroxides and/or proteinoxidation in the skin).

Also contemplated are kits that include any one of the compositionsdisclosed throughout the specification and claims. In certainembodiments, the composition is comprised in a container. The containercan be a bottle, dispenser, or package. The container can dispense apre-determined amount of the composition. In certain aspects, thecompositions is dispensed in a spray, dollop, or liquid. The containercan include indicia on its surface. The indicia can be a word, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

Also contemplated is a product comprising a composition of the presentinvention. In non-limiting aspects, the product can be a cosmeticproduct. The cosmetic product can be those described in other sectionsof this specification or those known to a person of skill in the art.Non-limiting examples of products include a moisturizer, a cream, alotion, a skin softener, a foundation, a night cream, a lipstick, acleanser, a toner, a pore minimizer, a sunscreen, a mask, or ananti-aging product.

Also disclosed in the context of the present invention are Embodiments 1to 20. Embodiment 1 is a composition comprising Albizia julibrissin barkextract, Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract, hydrolyzed soy flour, sea whipextract, and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle. Embodiment 2 is thecomposition of Embodiment 1, wherein the composition comprises aneffective amount of Albizia julibrissin bark extract capable ofpreventing glycation, reducing cutaneous signs of fatigue, reducing darkcircles, reducing under eye bags, reducing dull complexion, reducingdrawn features, supporting detoxifying of a glyoxalase and/or proteasomesystem, and/or protecting and repairing proteic structures damaged byglycation. Embodiment 3 is the composition of Embodiment 1, wherein thecomposition comprises an effective amount of Evodia rutaecarpa fruitextract capable of reducing inflammation, reducing nociceptic pain,inhibiting PGE2, and/or reducing vasodilation. Embodiment 4 is thecomposition of Embodiment 1, wherein the composition comprises aneffective amount of hydrolyzed soy flour capable of reorganizingcollagen fibers and/or protecting elastin from enzymatic degradation.Embodiment 5 is the composition of Embodiment 1, wherein the compositioncomprises an effective amount of sea whip extract capable of reducingredness in skin, reducing inflammation, reducing the number of bacteria,reducing vaso-dilation, and/or neutralizing phospholipase A2. Embodiment6 is the composition of Embodiment 1, wherein the composition comprisesan effective amount of Albizia julibrissin bark extract, Evodiarutaecarpa fruit extract, hydrolyzed soy flour, and/or sea whip extractcapable of reducing the size and/or appearance of pores, tighteningskin, calming skin, and/or reducing skin oil. Embodiment 7 is thecomposition of Embodiment 1 comprising 0.1 to 1% by weight of Albiziajulibrissin bark extract, 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of Evodia rutaecarpafruit extract, 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of hydrolyzed soy flour, and 0.001to 0.05% by weight of sea whip extract. Embodiment 8 is the compositionof Embodiment 1, further comprising glycerin, cyclopentasiloxane,polysilicone-11, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, dipropyleneglycol, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, betaine, andbis-PEG/PPG-16/PPG-16/16 PEG/16 dimethicone. Embodiment 9 is thecomposition of Embodiment 8 comprising, 3 to 10% by weight of glycerin,2 to 8% by weight of cyclopentasiloxane, 1 to 6% by weight ofpolysilicone-11, 1 to 6% by weight of pentaerythrityltetraethylhexanoate, 1 to 6% by weight of dipropylene glycol, 1 to 6% byweight of methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, 0.5 to 4% by weight ofbetaine, and 0.5 to 4% by weight of bis-PEG/PPG-16/PPG-16/16 PEG/16dimethicone. Embodiment 10 is the composition of Embodiment 1, furthercomprising a solvent. Embodiment 11 is the composition of Embodiment 10,wherein the solvent comprises one or more of isododecane,octyldodecanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, alcohol, denatured alcohol,propanediol, isohexadecane, ceteareth-33, 1,2-hexanediol, and water.Embodiment 12 is the composition of Embodiment 1, wherein thecomposition is an emulsion, cream, lotion, solution, anhydrous base, orgel. Embodiment 13 is the composition of Embodiment 12, wherein thecomposition is a solution. Embodiment 14 is the composition ofEmbodiment 1, further comprising one or more additional ingredientsselected from one or more preservatives, emulsifiers, conditioningagents, thickening agents, fragrances, moisturizing agents, chelatingagents, structuring agents, and colorants. Embodiment 15 is a method forreducing skin pore size and/or appearance thereof comprising applyingthe composition of Embodiment 1 to the skin. Embodiment 16 is the methodof Embodiment 15, wherein the skin is cleansed prior to application ofthe composition. Embodiment 17 is the method of Embodiment 15 whereinthe composition is applied daily. Embodiment 18 is a method fortightening skin, calming skin, and/or reducing oil comprising applyingthe composition of Embodiment 1 to the skin. Embodiment 19 is the methodof Embodiment 18, wherein the skin is cleansed prior to application ofthe composition. Embodiment 20 is the method of Embodiment 18, whereinthe composition is applied daily.

The compositions and methods for their use can “comprise,” “consistessentially of,” or “consist of” any of the ingredients disclosedthroughout the specification. As used in this specification andclaim(s), the words “comprising” (and any form of comprising, such as“comprise” and “comprises”), “having” (and any form of having, such as“have” and “has”), “including” (and any form of including, such as“includes” and “include”) or “containing” (and any form of containing,such as “contains” and “contain”) are inclusive or open-ended and do notexclude additional, unrecited elements or method steps.

“Consisting essentially of” means that inclusion of additionalingredients in the compositions do not materially affect the beneficialproperties of the compositions. For instance, if a composition “consistsessentially of” Albizia julibrissin bark extract; Evodia rutaecarpafruit extract; hydrolyzed soy flour; and sea whip extract, saidcomposition excludes any ingredients that would materially affect thebeneficial properties of the compositions for reducing the size and/orappearance of pores or for tightening skin, calming skin, and/orreducing oil.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the inventioncan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In some embodiments, compositions of the present invention can bepharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant. “Pharmaceutically elegant”and/or “cosmetically elegant” describes a composition that hasparticular tactile properties which feel pleasant on the skin (e.g.,compositions that are not too watery or greasy, compositions that have asilky texture, compositions that are non-tacky or sticky, etc.).Pharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant can also relate to thecreaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to the moistureretaining properties of the composition.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition” includescompositions suitable for topical application on keratinous tissue. Suchcompositions are typically dermatologically-acceptable in that they donot have undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergicresponse, and the like, when applied to skin. Topical skin carecompositions of the present invention can have a selected viscosity toavoid significant dripping or pooling after application to skin.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, skin, hair and nails.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The term “substantially” and its variations are defined as being largelybut not necessarily wholly what is specified as understood by one ofordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limiting embodimentsubstantially refers to ranges within 10%, within 5%, within 1%, orwithin 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting,” “reducing,” “treating,” or any variation ofthese terms, when used in the claims and/or the specification includesany measurable decrease or complete inhibition to achieve a desiredresult.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

The compositions described herein are useful for reducing the sizeand/or appearance of pores or for tightening skin, calming skin, and/orreducing oil. The compositions described herein may also be used toimpart a fragrance, shine, or protectant film to the skin.

The present invention is premised on a discovery of a combination ofingredients—Sea Whip Extract, Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract,Hydrolyzed soy flour, and/or Albizia julibrissin bark extract—that canbe used to reduce the size and/or appearance of pores or to tightenskin, calm skin, and to reduce skin oil. These ingredients are discussedin more detail below.

Sea whip extract is an extract of the marine invertebrate,Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae. It is known for possessinganti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. It is also known asgorgonian extract and can be beneficial in reducing redness in skin dueto vaso-dilation. Without being bound to any scientific theory, it isbelieved that sea whip extract reduces redness in skin by neutralizingphospholipase A2, a naturally occurring enzyme in the body that can leadto pain and swelling in the skin. In some embodiments, this ingredientis sold by Lipochemicals.

Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract is known for its anti-inflammatoryproperties and also has anti-nociceptic activity. The Evodia rutaecarpafruit extract was found to be a potent inhibitor of UVB-inducedprostoaglandin E2 (PGE2), a vasodilator, released by keratinocytes incell culture. In some embodiments, this ingredient is sold by Gattefosseunder the trade name of Gatuline® Radiance.

Hydrolyzed soy flour is used as a skin conditioning agent in cosmeticcompositions. It is known to have high glycoprotein and structuralpolysaccharide content that are able to reorganize collagen fibers andalso protect elastin from enzymatic degradation. In some embodiments,this ingredient is sold by Silab under the trade name of Raffermine® 2.

Albizia julibrissin bark extract is also known as the Persian or pinksilk tree and is native to Southwestern and Eastern Asia. It is used incosmetic compositions as a fragrance and has also been found to preventglycation. Albizia julibrissin bark extract promotes a visible reductionin the cutaneous signs of fatigue such as dark circles, under eye bags,dull complexion and drawn features. It is supportive of detoxifyingsystems such as glyoxalase and the proteasome, and can protect andrepair the proteic structures damaged by glycation. In some embodiments,this ingredient is sold by Sederma under the trade name of Prodizia™.

The extracts described herein can be extracts made through extractionmethods known in the art and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examplesof extraction methods include the use of liquid-liquid extraction, solidphase extraction, aqueous extraction, ethyl acetate, alcohol, acetone,oil, supercritical carbon dioxide, heat, pressure, pressure dropextraction, ultrasonic extraction, etc. Extracts can be a liquid, solid,dried liquid, re-suspended solid, etc.

A. Compositions of the Present Invention

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention caninclude any cosmetic ingredient or any combination thereof describedthroughout this specification. The concentrations of the any ingredientwithin the compositions can vary. In non-limiting embodiments, forexample, the compositions can comprise, consisting essentially of, orconsist of, in their final form, for example, at least about 0.0001%,0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%,0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%, 0.0013%, 0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%,0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%, 0.0021%, 0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%,0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%, 0.0029%, 0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%,0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%, 0.0037%, 0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%,0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%, 0.0045%, 0.0046%, 0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%,0.0050%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%, 0.0053%, 0.0054%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%,0.0058%, 0.0059%, 0.0060%, 0.0061%, 0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%,0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%, 0.0069%, 0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%,0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%, 0.0077%, 0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%,0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%, 0.0085%, 0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%,0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%, 0.0093%, 0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%,0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%, 0.0200%, 0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%,0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%, 0.0425%, 0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%,0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%, 0.0625%, 0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%,0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%, 0.0825%, 0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%,0.0950%, 0.0975%, 0.1000%, 0.1250%, 0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%,0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%, 0.3250%, 0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%,0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%, 0.5250%, 0.0550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%,0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%, 0.7250%, 0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%,0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%, 0.9250%, 0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%,1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%,2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%,3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%,4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%,6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%,7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%,8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%,9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%,21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%,60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 99% or any range derivabletherein, of at least one of the ingredients that are mentionedthroughout the specification and claims. In non-limiting aspects, thepercentage can be calculated by weight or volume of the totalcomposition. A person of ordinary skill in the art would understand thatthe concentrations can vary depending on the addition, substitution,and/or subtraction of ingredients in a given composition.

The disclosed compositions of the present invention may also includevarious antioxidants to retard oxidation of one or more components.Additionally, the prevention of the action of microorganisms can bebrought about by preservatives such as various antibacterial andantifungal agents, including but not limited to parabens (e.g.,methylparabens, propylparabens), chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid,thimerosal or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, thecompositions do not contain parabens.

B. Vehicles

The compositions of the present invention can be incorporated into alltypes of vehicles (i.e. dermatologically acceptable). Non-limitingexamples of suitable vehicles include emulsions (e.g., water-in-oil,water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water, silicone-in-water,water-in-silicone, oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-siliconeemulsions), creams, lotions, solutions (both aqueous andhydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks and powders), gels,and ointments or by other method or any combination of the forgoing aswould be known to one of ordinary skill in the art (Remington's, 1990).Variations and other appropriate vehicles will be apparent to theskilled artisan and are appropriate for use in the present invention. Incertain aspects, it is important that the concentrations andcombinations of the compounds, ingredients, and agents be selected insuch a way that the combinations are chemically compatible and do notform complexes which precipitate from the finished product.

It is also contemplated that ingredients identified throughout thisspecification can be individually or combinatorially encapsulated fordelivery to a target area such as skin. Non-limiting examples ofencapsulation techniques include the use of liposomes, vesicles, and/ornanoparticles (e.g., biodegradable and non-biodegradable colloidalparticles comprising polymeric materials in which the ingredient istrapped, encapsulated, and/or absorbed—examples include nanospheres andnanocapsules) that can be used as delivery vehicles to deliver theingredient to skin (see, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 6,387,398; U.S. Pat. No.6,203,802; U.S. Pat. No. 5,411,744; Kreuter 1998).

C. Cosmetic Products and Articles of Manufacture

The composition of the present invention can also be used in manycosmetic products including, but not limited to, sunscreen products,sunless skin tanning products, hair products, finger nail products,moisturizing creams, skin benefit creams and lotions, softeners, daylotions, gels, ointments, foundations, night creams, lipsticks,cleansers, toners, masks, or other known cosmetic products orapplications. Additionally, the cosmetic products can be formulated asleave-on or rinse-off products. In certain aspects, the compositions ofthe present invention are stand-alone products.

D. Additional Ingredients

In addition to the specific combination of ingredients disclosed herein,compositions of the present invention can include additional ingredientssuch as cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceutical active ingredients.Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredients are described inthe following subsections.

1. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2004and 2008) describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredientsthat can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples ofthese ingredient classes include: fragrances (artificial and natural;e.g. gluconic acid, phenoxyethanol, triethyl citrate, andtriethanolamine), dyes and colorants (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40,Red 28 Lake, Red 7 Lake, Red 6 Lake, titanium dioxide, Unipure Red 6,Unipure Red 28, Unipure Red 33, Unipure Yellow OX, Unipure Yellow 5,FD&C blue 1, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C redno. 17, D&C red no. 6, D&C red no. 7, D&C red no. 30, D&C red no. 33,D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, D&C yellow no. 11, iron oxides,chromium oxides, tin oxide, ultramarines, and mica), flavoring agents(e.g. Stevia rebaudiana (sweetleaf) extract), adsorbents, lubricants,solvents (e.g. water, hydrocarbons, hexylene glycol, isododecane,octyldodecanol, glycerin, and propylene glycol), moisturizers(including, e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers, occlusiveagents, and agents that affect the natural moisturization mechanisms ofthe skin), water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical and chemicalabsorbers such as paraaminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABAderivatives, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.), essential oils,vitamins (e.g. A, B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals (e.g. zinc, calciumand selenium), inorganic salts (e.g. sodium chloride, magnesium nitrate,and magnesium chloride), anti-irritants (e.g. steroids and non-steroidalanti-inflammatories), botanical extracts (e.g. aloe vera, chamomile,cucumber extract, ginkgo biloba, ginseng, and rosemary), anti-microbialagents, antioxidants (e.g., BHT and tocopherol), chelating agents (e.g.,disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparabenand propylparaben), pH adjusters (e.g., sodium hydroxide,triethanolamine, and citric acid), absorbents (e.g., aluminum starchoctenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch, oat starch, cyclodextrin, talc,and zeolite), skin bleaching and lightening agents (e.g., hydroquinoneand niacinamide lactate), humectants (e.g., sorbitol, urea, andmanitol), exfoliants, waterproofing agents (e.g., magnesium/aluminumhydroxide stearate), conditioning agents (e.g., aloe extracts,allantoin, bisabolol, ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid, anddipotassium glycyrrhizate), and film formers (e.g. acrylates copolymerand polyquarternium-7). Non-limiting examples of some of theseingredients are provided in the following subsections.

a. UV Absorption Agents

UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with thecompositions of the present invention include chemical and physicalsunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be usedinclude para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA,amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate,cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyldiisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethylmethoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate,benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.),anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, oxtinoxate,dibenzoylmethane derivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyltriazone, digalloy trioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone withdihydroxyacetone, ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone,benzylidene malonate polysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonicacid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate,bis benzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizoletrisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyiphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine,4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate.Non-limiting examples of physical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc,petrolatum and metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).

b. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitinsulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerolpolymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol,maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrollidone carboxylic acid,potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodium glucuronate, sodium PCA,sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, and xylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloebarbadensis gel, althea officinalis extract, apricot (prunus armeniaca)kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate, arnica montana extract,aspartic acid, avocado (persea gratissima) oil, barrier sphingolipids,butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, birch (betulaalba) bark extract, borage (borago officinalis) extract, butcherbroom(ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, calendula officinalisextract, calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (euphorbia cerifera) wax,canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamon (elettariacardamomum) oil, carnauba (copernicia cerifera) wax, carrot (daucuscarota sativa) oil, castor (ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20,ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile(anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (zea mays) oil,fatty acids, decyl oleate, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyladipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate,DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, eucalyptus globulusoil, evening primrose (oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, geraniummaculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid,glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glycerylhydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, hybridsafflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline, isocetylstearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid,isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (jasminumofficinale) oil, jojoba (buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (aleuritesmoluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate,lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax,lavender (lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (citrus medicalimonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, macadamia ternifolia nutoil, maltitol, matricaria (chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucosesesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierellaoil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl propionate,neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecylmyristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octylpalmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (oleaeuropaea) oil, orange (citrus aurantium dulcis) oil, palm (elaeisguineensis) oil, palmitic acid, pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethylether, paraffin, PCA, peach (prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (arachishypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate,PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glycerylstearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate,PEG40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG40stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate,pentadecalactone, peppermint (mentha piperita) oil, petrolatum,phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate,polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60,polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, potassium myristate, potassiumpalmitate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propyleneglycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol stearate SE,PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, retinol, retinol palmitate, rice (oryzasativa) bran oil, RNA, rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil,safflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, sage (salvia officinalis) oil,sandalwood (santalum album) oil, serine, serum protein, sesame (sesamumindicum) oil, shea butter (butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodiumchondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodiumpalmitate, sodium PCA, sodium polyglutamate, soluble collagen, sorbitanlaurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate,sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soybean (glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids,squalane, squalene, stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxydimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearylglycyrrhetinate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower(helianthus annuus) seed oil, sweet almond (prunus amygdalus dulcis)oil, synthetic beeswax, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryllinoleate, tribehenin, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate,triethanolamine, tristearin, urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat(triticum vulgare) germ oil, and ylang ylang (cananga odorata) oil.

c. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbicacid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanolpectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCI, diamylhydroquinone,di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopherylmethylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate,ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters ofascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters,hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanicalanti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid,potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propylgallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite,sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxidedismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol,thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolacticacid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12,tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherylsuccinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

d. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present inventioncan include a structuring agent. Structuring agent, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emollient, emulsifier or surfactant.Non-limiting examples of structuring agents include stearic acid,palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, PPG-30 cetyl ether,behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, the polyethylene glycolether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 21ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcoholhaving an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units,polyoxyethylene methylglucoside dioleate, tea-lauryl sulfate,polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate,propylene glycol myristyl ether acetate, 3-hydroxypropyl(E)-octadec-9-enoate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan stearate, carbomer,ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/carboxyethyl acrylate crosspolymer,sodium laureth sulfate, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, PPG-26 oleate, andmixtures thereof.

e. Emulsifiers

In certain aspects of the present invention, the compositions do notinclude an emulsifier. In other aspects, however, the compositions caninclude one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacialtension between phases and improve the formulation and stability of anemulsion. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, andzwitterionic emulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos.5,011,681; 4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include estersof glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, estersof sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers,esters and ethers of glucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols,alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acidamides, acyl lactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate,polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), sorbitanisostearate, polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20,steareth-21, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate,ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate,diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate,PEG-100 stearate, C20-40 alcohols, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodiumacryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

f. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In certain aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes asilicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Silicone containing compounds of the invention may also beused as bulking agents (e.g. silicic acid and aluminum calcium sodiumsilicate). Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be used inthe context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

g. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several methods known tothose of skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e.,extraction by using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanicalpressing). When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend toevaporate (i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils arecolorless, but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essentialoils are insoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixedoils (vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physicalcharacteristics found in essential oils include boiling points that varyfrom about 160° to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 toabout 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

h. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances which that can increase or control the viscosity of acomposition. Thickeners includes those that can increase the viscosityof a composition without substantially modifying the efficacy of theactive ingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increasethe stability of the compositions of the present invention. In certainaspects of the present invention, thickeners include hydrogenatedpolyisobutene or trihydroxystearin, or a mixture of both.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecrosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of theseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol(e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379.

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC₁₀-C₃₀ straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C₁₀-C₃₀ straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

Further non-limiting examples of thickening agents include carbomer,cetyl alcohol, ammonium acryloydimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, aluminumstarch actenylsuccinate, cocamidopropyl betaine, PPG-2 hydroxyethylcoco/isostearamide, tin oxide, hexadecane copolymer, calcium aluminumborosilicate, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, aluminum calciumsodium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, synthetic fluorphlogopite,and disodium EDTA.

i. Preservatives

Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in the contextof the present invention include quaternary ammonium preservatives suchas polyquaternium-1 and benzalkonium halides (e.g., benzalkoniumchloride (“BAC”) and benzalkonium bromide), parabens (e.g.,methylparabens and propylparabens), benzyl alcohol, chlorobutanol,phenol, sorbic acid, thimerosal, caprylyl glycol, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone,sodium benzoate, dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 3-iodo-2-propynylbutyl carbamate, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl alcohol, ethylhexyl glycerin,hexylene glycol, DMDM hydantoin, chlorphenesin, decylene glycol, andcombinations thereof.

j. Conditioning Agents

Non-limiting examples of conditioning agents that can be used in thecontext of the present invention include caprylyl glycol,ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-12 dimethicone, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin,dimethicone, tocopheryl acetate, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter),polymers of polyethylene glycol and methicone, Helianthus annuus(sunflower) seed oil, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate/cocoate,cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, tocopherol,glycerin, Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) oleosomes, butylene glycol,allantoin, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride,propylene glycol stearate, panthenol, polypropylene glycol ether ofcetyl alcohol, polyquaternium-7, ethoxylated glyceryl esters, ethylhexylpalmitate. aloe extracts, bisabolol, ceramides, hyaluronic acid,dipotassium glycyrrhizate, cocamidopropyl betaine, pentaerythrityltetraisostearate, glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate, tridecyl trimellitate,Albizia julibrissin bark extract, Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract,hydrolyzed soy flour, Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) flower/leaf/stemextract, sea whip extract, Elettaria cardamomum seed extract, Rubusidaeus (raspberry) fruit extract, Pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract,Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Cananga odorata flower extract,Cupressus sempervirens leaf/stem extact, santalum album (sandalwood)wood extract, Coffea Arabica (coffee) seed extract, Citrus Aurantiumamara (bitter orange) flower extract, Cucumis melo cantalupensis fruitextract, rose extract, Salvia officinalis (sage) leaf extract, Fucusvesiculosus extract, Rosemarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract,Jasminum officinale (jasmine) flower extract, Cucumis sativus (cucumber)fruit extract, and mixtures thereof.

2. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical active agents are also contemplated as being useful withthe compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples ofpharmaceutical active agents include anti-acne agents, agents used totreat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines,anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatorydrugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-canceractives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants,antipruritics, antipsoriatic agents, antiseborrheic agents, biologicallyactive proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents, cauterizing agents,depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rash treatment agents,enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growth retardants including DFMOand its salts and analogs, hemostatics, kerotolytics, canker soretreatment agents, cold sore treatment agents, dental and periodontaltreatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skin protectant/barrieragents, steroids including hormones and corticosteroids, sunburntreatment agents, sunscreens, transdermal actives, nasal actives,vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, wound treatment agents, woundhealing agents, etc.

E. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, compositions of the present inventioncan be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers caninclude a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, adispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, acompartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pansthat can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers suchas injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which thedispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packagesare retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on itssurface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition.In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal,laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of thecomposition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, an aerosol, aliquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump,or squeeze mechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for employingthe kit components as well the use of any other compositions included inthe container. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate certain non-limitingaspects of the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill inthe art that the techniques disclosed in the examples which followrepresent techniques discovered by the inventor to function well in thepractice of the invention. However, those of skill in the art should, inlight of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can bemade in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain alike or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

Example 1 Non-Limiting Examples of Compositions

The compositions listed in Tables 1-3 are non-limiting compositions thatcan be used in the context of the present invention.

TABLE 1* % Concentration Ingredient** (by weight) Water 65 Glycerin 6Cyclopentasiloxane 5 Polysilicone-11 3 PentaerythritylTetraethylhexanoate 3.5 Dipropylene Glycol 3 Methyl MethacrylateCrosspolymer 3 Betaine 2 Bis-PEG/PPG-16/PPG-16/16 2 PEG/16 DimethiconeAlbizia julibrissin bark extract 0.5 Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract 0.1Hydrolyzed soy flour 0.02 Sea whip extract 0.01 Excipients*** q.s.*Formulation can be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker underheat 70-75° C. until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can becooled to standing room temperature (20-25° C.). Further, and ifdesired, additional ingredients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. **Any of the additionalingredients (or combination thereof) described in the specification canbe used. ***Excipients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 60% w/w, and preferably between 60 to 85% w/w.

TABLE 2* % Concentration Ingredient** (by weight) Water 65 Glycerin 7Cyclopentasiloxane 5 Polysilicone-11 4 PentaerythritylTetraethylhexanoate 4 Dipropylene Glycol 3 Methyl MethacrylateCrosspolymer 3 Betaine 2 Bis-PEG/PPG-16/PPG-16/16 2 PEG/16 DimethiconeAlbizia julibrissin bark extract 0.6 Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract0.05 Hydrolyzed soy flour 0.01 Sea whip extract 0.01 Propanediol 1Isohexadecane 0.5 Excipients*** q.s. *Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. **Any of the additional ingredients (or combinationthereof) described in the specification can be used. ***Excipients canbe added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long asthe amount of water in the composition is at least 60% w/w, andpreferably between 60 to 85% w/w.

TABLE 3* % Concentration Ingredient** (by weight) Water 65 Glycerin 6Cyclopentasiloxane 5 Polysilicone-11 3 PentaerythritylTetraethylhexanoate 3 Dipropylene Glycol 3 Methyl MethacrylateCrosspolymer 3 Betaine 2 Bis-PEG/PPG-16/PPG-16/16 1 PEG/16 DimethiconeAlbizia julibrissin bark extract 0.6 Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract 0.1Hydrolyzed soy flour 0.02 Sea whip extract 0.005 Propanediol 1Isohexadecane 0.5 1,2-Hexanediol 0.1 Excipients*** q.s. *Formulation canbe prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C.until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled tostanding room temperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired,additional ingredients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. **Any of the additionalingredients (or combination thereof) described in the specification canbe used. ***Excipients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 60% w/w, and preferably between 60 to 85% w/w.

Example 2 Assays

The efficacy of the combination of ingredients disclosed throughout thespecification and claims can be determined by using the followingassays.

Erythema Assay:

An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can be evaluated usinga Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced by applying a 0.2%solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of a subject. The areais protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, the patchis removed and the irritation-induced redness can be assessed using thea* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes inskin color in the red region. Immediately after reading, the area istreated with a composition of the present invention. Repeat measurementsare taken at regular intervals to determine the formula's ability toreduce redness and irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay:

Skin moisture/hydration benefits can be measured by using impedancemeasurements with the Nova Dermal Phase Meter. The impedance metermeasures changes in skin moisture content. The outer layer of the skinhas distinct electrical properties. When skin is dry it conductselectricity very poorly. As it becomes more hydrated increasingconductivity results. Consequently, changes in skin impedance (relatedto conductivity) can be used to assess changes in skin hydration. Theunit can be calibrated according to instrument instructions for eachtesting day. A notation of temperature and relative humidity can also bemade. Subjects can be evaluated as follows: prior to measurement theycan equilibrate in a room with defined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) andtemperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Three separate impedance readings can betaken on each side of the face, recorded, and averaged. The T5 settingcan be used on the impedance meter which averages the impedance valuesof every five seconds application to the face. Changes can be reportedwith statistical variance and significance.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay:

Skin clarity and the reduction in freckles and age spots can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can beassessed to determine irritation potential due to product treatmentusing the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measureschanges in skin color in the red region. This is used to determinewhether a composition is inducing irritation. The measurements can bemade on each side of the face and averaged, as left and right facialvalues. Skin clarity can also be measured using the Minolta Meter. Themeasurement is a combination of the a*, b, and L values of the MinoltaMeter and is related to skin brightness, and correlates well with skinsmoothness and hydration. Skin reading is taken as above. In onenon-limiting) aspect, skin clarity can be described as L/C where C ischroma and is defined as (a²+b²)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:

Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay:

Clinical grading of skin tone can be performed via a ten point analognumerical scale: (10) even skin of uniform, pinkish brown color. Nodark, erythremic, or scaly patches upon examination with a hand heldmagnifying lens. Microtexture of the skin very uniform upon touch; (7)even skin tone observed without magnification. No scaly areas, butslight discolorations either due to pigmentation or erythema. Nodiscolorations more than 1 cm in diameter; (4) both skin discolorationand uneven texture easily noticeable. Slight scaliness. Skin rough tothe touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skin coloration and texture.Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration, either hypopigmented,erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of uneven color more than 1 cm indiameter. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians andaveraged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay:

Clinical grading of skin smoothness can be analyzed via a ten pointanalog numerical scale: (10) smooth, skin is moist and glistening, noresistance upon dragging finger across surface; (7) somewhat smooth,slight resistance; (4) rough, visibly altered, friction upon rubbing;and (1) rough, flaky, uneven surface. Evaluations were madeindependently by two clinicians and averaged.

Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay with Methods Disclosed inPackman et al. (1978):

Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also be assessed visually byusing the methods disclosed in Packman et al. (1978). For example, ateach subject visit, the depth, shallowness and the total number ofsuperficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject can be carefully scoredand recorded. A numerical score was obtained by multiplying a numberfactor times a depth/width/length factor. Scores are obtained for theeye area and mouth area (left and right sides) and added together as thetotal wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer:

Skin firmness can be measured using a Hargens ballistometer, a devicethat evaluates the elasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping asmall body onto the skin and recording its first two rebound peaks. Theballistometry is a small lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip(4 square mm-contact area) was used. The probe penetrates slightly intothe skin and results in measurements that are dependent upon theproperties of the outer layers of the skin, including the stratumcorneum and outer epidermis and some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:

Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas BearingElectrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strainproperties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlatewith skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on thepredetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skinsurface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can beapplied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement isaccurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and isexpressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas:

The appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated usingreplicas, which is the impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubberlike material can be used. The replica can be analyzed by imageanalysis. Changes in the visibility of lines and wrinkles can beobjectively quantified via the taking of silicon replicas form thesubjects' face and analyzing the replicas image using a computer imageanalysis system. Replicas can be taken from the eye area and the neckarea, and photographed with a digital camera using a low angle incidencelighting. The digital images can be analyzed with an image processingprogram and the area of the replicas covered by wrinkles or fine lineswas determined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method:

The surface contour of the skin can be measured by using theprofilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light ordragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacementof the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, andafter scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis ofskin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan canbe repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using thestylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate averagevalues. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic meanof all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profileheight relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximumvertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rzwhich is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values aregiven as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardizedprior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Valuecan be computed by the following equation: R_(a)=Standardize roughness;l_(m)=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of thelocation of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

MELANODERM™ Assay:

In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of the compositions of thepresent invention can be evaluated by using a skin analog, such as, forexample, MELANODERM™. Melanocytes, one of the cells in the skin analog,stain positively when exposed to L-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (L-DOPA), aprecursor of melanin. The skin analog, MELANODERM™, can be treated witha variety of bases containing the compositions and whitening agents ofthe present invention or with the base alone as a control.Alternatively, an untreated sample of the skin analog can be used as acontrol.

ORAC Assay:

Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) of thearomatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can also be assayed bymeasuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients or compositions.This assay can quantify the degree and length of time it takes toinhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygen radicals thatare known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). The ORAC value ofthe aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can be determinedby methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art (see U.S.Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and 2005/0163880; Cao et al. (1993)), allof which are incorporated by reference). In summary, the assay describedin Cao et al. (1993) measures the ability of antioxidant compounds intest materials to inhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm (B-PE)fluorescence that is induced by a peroxyl radical generator, AAPH.

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay:

An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs areextracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and diseasestates by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substratesinclude collagens, fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substratesinclude collagen VII, fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric DrugDiscovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9(AK-410), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPsusing a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate(Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavagesite peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide.Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, whichreacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent]to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by itsabsorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M−1 cm−1 at pH 6.0 and above 7).

B16 Pigmentation Assay:

Melanogenesis is the process by which melanocytes produce melanin, anaturally produced pigment that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes.Inhibiting melanogenesis is beneficial to prevent skin darkening andlighten dark spots associated with aging. This bioassay utilizes B16-F1melanocytes (ATCC), an immortalized mouse melanoma cell line, to analyzethe effect of compounds on melanogenesis. The endpoint of this assay isa spectrophotometric measurement of melanin production and cellularviability. B16-F1 melanocytes, can be cultivated in standard DMEM growthmedium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂ andthen treated with any one of the active ingredients, combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification for 6 days. Following incubation, melanin secretion wasmeasured by absorbance at 405 nm and cellular viability was quantified.

Collagen Stimulation Assay:

Collagen is an extracellular matrix protein critical for skin structure.Increased synthesis of collagen helps improve skin firmness andelasticity. This bioassay can be used to examine the effect of any oneof the active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification on theproduction of procollagen peptide (a precursor to collagen) by humanepidermal fibroblasts. The endpoint of this assay is aspectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence of procollagenpeptide and cellular viability. The assay employs the quantitativesandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibodyspecific for procollagen peptide has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wells and any procollagenpeptide present is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing awayany unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specificfor procollagen peptide can be added to the wells. Following a wash toremove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution can beadded to the wells and color develops in proportion to the amount ofprocollagen peptide bound in the initial step using a microplate readerfor detection at 450 nm. The color development can be stopped and theintensity of the color can be measured. Subconfluent normal human adultepidermal fibroblasts (Cascade Biologics) cultivated in standard DMEMgrowth medium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10%CO₂, can be treated with each of the combination of ingredients orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification for3 days. Following incubation, cell culture medium can be collected andthe amount of procollagen peptide secretion quantified using a sandwichenzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from Takara (#MK101).

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay:

The prototype ligand of the TNF superfamily, TNF-α, is a pleiotropiccytokine that plays a central role in inflammation. Increase in itsexpression is associated with an up regulation in pro-inflammatoryactivity. This bioassay can be used to analyze the effect of any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification on theproduction of TNF-α by human epidermal keratinocytes. The endpoint ofthis assay can be a spectrophotometric measurement that reflects thepresence of TNF-α and cellular viability. The assay employs thequantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonalantibody specific for TNF-α has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wells and any TNF-αpresent is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing away anyunbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specific forTNF-α can be added to the wells. Following a wash to remove any unboundantibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution can be added to the wellsand color develops in proportion to the amount of TNF-α bound in theinitial step using a microplate reader for detection at 450 nm. Thecolor development can be stopped and the intensity of the color can bemeasured. Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes (CascadeBiologics) cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium (CascadeBiologics) at 37° C. in 5% CO₂, can be treated with phorbol 12-myristate13-acetate (PMA, 10 ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, #P1585-1MG) and any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification for 6 hours. PMAhas been shown to cause a dramatic increase in TNF-α secretion whichpeaks at 6 hours after treatment. Following incubation, cell culturemedium can be collected and the amount of TNF-α secretion quantifiedusing a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from R&DSystems (#DTA00C).

Antioxidant (AO) Assay:

An in vitro bioassay that measures the total anti-oxidant capacity ofany one of the ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The assayrelies on the ability of antioxidants in the sample to inhibit theoxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) toABTS®+ by metmyoglobin. The antioxidant system of living organismsincludes enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathioneperoxidase; macromolecules such as albumin, ceruloplasmin, and ferritin;and an array of small molecules, including ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol,β-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid, and bilirubin. The sum ofendogenous and food-derived antioxidants represents the totalantioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid. Cooperation of all thedifferent antioxidants provides greater protection against attack byreactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, than any single compound alone.Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity may give more relevant biologicalinformation compared to that obtained by the measurement of individualcomponents, as it considers the cumulative effect of all antioxidantspresent in plasma and body fluids. The capacity of the antioxidants inthe sample to prevent ABTS oxidation is compared with that of Trolox, awater-soluble tocopherol analogue, and is quantified as molar Troloxequivalents. Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (AnnArbor, Mich. USA) can be used as an in vitro bioassay to measure thetotal anti-oxidant capacity of each of any one of the activeingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositions having saidcombinations disclosed in the specification. The protocol can befollowed according to manufacturer recommendations. The assay relied onantioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS®(2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®+ bymetmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to preventABTS oxidation can be compared with that Trolox, a water-solubletocopherol analogue, and was quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent.

Mushroom Tyrosinase Activity Assay:

In mammalian cells, tyrosinase catalyzes two steps in the multi-stepbiosynthesis of melanin pigments from tyrosine (and from thepolymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase is localized in melanocytesand produces melanin (aromatic quinone compounds) that imparts color toskin, hair, and eyes. Purified mushroom tyrosinase (Sigma) can beincubated with its substrate L-Dopa (Fisher) in the presence or absenceof each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification. Pigment formation can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinaseactivity can be calculated compared to non-treated controls to determinethe ability of test ingredients or combinations thereof to inhibit theactivity of purified enzyme. Test ingredient inhibition can be comparedwith that of kojic acid (Sigma).

Cyclooxygenase (COX) Assay:

An in vitro cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1, -2) inhibition assay. COX isa bifunctional enzyme exhibiting both cyclooxygenase and peroxidaseactivities. The cyclooxygenase activity converts arachidonic acid to ahydroperoxy endoperoxide (Prostaglandin G2; PGG2) and the peroxidasecomponent reduces the endoperoxide (Prostaglandin H2; PGH2) to thecorresponding alcohol, the precursor of prostaglandins, thromboxanes,and prostacyclins. This COX Inhibitor screening assay measures theperoxidase component of cyclooxygenases. The peroxidase activity isassayed colorimetrically by monitoring the appearance of oxidizedN,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD). This inhibitorscreening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes in order to screenisozyme-specific inhibitors. The Colormetric COX (ovine) Inhibitorscreening assay (#760111, Cayman Chemical) can be used to analyze theeffects of each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification on the activity of purified cyclooxygnase enzyme (COX-1 orCOX-2). According to manufacturer instructions, purified enzyme, hemeand test ingredients can be mixed in assay buffer and incubated withshaking for 15 min at room temperature. Following incubation,arachidonic acid and colorimetric substrate can be added to initiate thereaction. Color progression can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 590 nm. The percent inhibition of COX-1 or COX-2 activity canbe calculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the abilityof test ingredients to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay:

An in vitro lipoxygenase (LO) inhibition assay. LOs are non-hemeiron-containing dioxygenases that catalyze the addition of molecularoxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate and arachidonate are the mainsubstrates for LOs in plants and animals. Arachadonic acid may then beconverted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE) acid derivatives, that aresubsequently converted to leukotirenes, potent inflammatory mediators.This assay provides an accurate and convenient method for screeninglipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxides generated fromthe incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO) with arachidonicacid. The Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit (#760700, CaymanChemical) can be used to determine the ability of each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification to inhibitenzyme activity. Purified 15-lipoxygenase and test ingredients can bemixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 10 min at roomtemperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid can be added toinitiate the reaction and mixtures incubated for an additional 10 min atroom temperature. Colorimetric substrate can be added to terminatecatalysis and color progression was evaluated by fluorescence platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of lipoxyganse activity can becalculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the ability ofeach of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Elastase Assay:

EnzChek® Elastase Assay (Kit# E-12056) from Molecular Probes (Eugene,Oreg. USA) can be used as an in vitro enzyme inhibition assay formeasuring inhibition of elastase activity for each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The EnzChek kitcontains soluble bovine neck ligament elastin that can be labeled withdye such that the conjugate's fluorescence can be quenched. Thenon-fluorescent substrate can be digested by elastase or other proteasesto yield highly fluorescent fragments. The resulting increase influorescence can be monitored with a fluorescence microplate reader.Digestion products from the elastin substrate have absorption maxima at˜505 nm and fluorescence emission maxima at ˜515 nm. The peptide,chloromethyl ketone, can be used as a selective, collective inhibitor ofelastase when utilizing the EnzChek Elastase Assay Kit for screening forelastase inhibitors.

Oil Control Assay:

An assay to measure reduction of sebum secretion from sebaceous glandsand/or reduction of sebum production from sebaceous glands can beassayed by using standard techniques known to those having ordinaryskill in the art. In one instance, the forehead can be used. Each of theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe applied to one portion of the forehead once or twice daily for a setperiod of days (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, ormore days), while another portion of the forehead is not treated withthe composition. After the set period of days expires, then sebumsecretion can be assayed by application of fine blotting paper to thetreated and untreated forehead skin. This is done by first removing anysebum from the treated and untreated areas with moist and dry cloths.Blotting paper can then be applied to the treated and untreated areas ofthe forehead, and an elastic band can be placed around the forehead togently press the blotting paper onto the skin. After 2 hours theblotting papers can be removed, allowed to dry and thentransilluminated. Darker blotting paper correlates with more sebumsecretion (or lighter blotting paper correlates with reduced sebumsecretion.

All of the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods disclosedand claimed in this specification can be made and executed without undueexperimentation in light of the present disclosure. While theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods of this invention havebeen described in terms of particular embodiments, it will be apparentto those of skill in the art that variations may be applied to theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods and in the steps or inthe sequence of steps of the method described herein without departingfrom the concept, spirit and scope of the invention.

REFERENCES

The following references, to the extent that they provide exemplaryprocedural or other details supplementary to those set forth herein, arespecifically incorporated herein by reference. Cao et al. 1993.

-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12^(th)    Edition, 2008 (“CTFA”), Volume 2 page 2399-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12^(th)    Edition, 2008 (“CTFA”), Volume 1 page 198, page 655-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 4^(th)    Edition, 1991 (“CTFA”), pp. 12 and 80

The invention claimed is:
 1. A method for reducing the appearance of askin pore in skin of a subject in need thereof, the method comprisingtopically applying to the skin pore a composition comprising effectiveamount of: Albizia julibrissin bark extract; Evodia rutaecarpa fruitextract; hydrolyzed soy flour; and sea whip extract, wherein topicalapplication of the composition reduces the size of the skin pore.
 2. Themethod of claim 1, wherein the Albizia julibrissin bark extract is aglycerin extract of Albizia julibrissin bark or aqueous glycerin extractof Albizia julibrissin bark.
 3. The method of claim 1, wherein theEvodia rutaecarpa fruit extract is a propanediol extract of Evodiarutaecarpa fruit.
 4. The method of claim 1, wherein the hydrolyzed soyflour comprises glycoproteins and polysaccharides from soybean cellwalls.
 5. The method of claim 1, wherein the sea whip extract is anethanol extract comprising pseudopterosins from Pseudopterogorgiaelisabethae.
 6. The method of claim 1, wherein: the Albizia julibrissinbark extract is a glycerin extract of Albizia julibrissin bark oraqueous glycerin extract of Albizia julibrissin bark, the Evodiarutaecarpa fruit extract is a propanediol extract of Evodia rutaecarpafruit; the hydrolyzed soy flour comprises glycoproteins andpolysaccharides from soybean cell walls; and the sea whip extract is anethanol extract comprising pseudopterosins from Pseudopterogorgiaelisabethae.
 7. The method of claim 1, wherein the compositioncomprises: 0.1 to 1% by weight of Albizia julibrissin bark extract; 0.01to 0.5% by weight of Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract; 0.01 to 0.5% byweight of hydrolyzed soy flour; and 0.001 to 0.05% by weight of sea whipextract.
 8. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition furthercomprises: glycerin; cyclopentasiloxane; polysilicone-11;pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate; dipropylene glycol; methylmethacrylate crosspolymer; betaine; and bis-PEG/PPG-16/PPG-16/16 PEG/16dimethicone.
 9. The method of claim 1, wherein the compositioncomprises: 3 to 10% by weight of glycerin; 2 to 8% by weight ofcyclopentasiloxane; 1 to 6% by weight of polysilicone-11; 1 to 6% byweight of pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate; 1 to 6% by weight ofdipropylene glycol; 1 to 6% by weight of methyl methacrylatecrosspolymer; 0.5 to 4% by weight of betaine; and 0.5 to 4% by weight ofbis-PEG/PPG-16/PPG-16/16 PEG/16 dimethicone.
 10. The method of claim 1,wherein the composition is an emulsion, cream, lotion, solution,anhydrous base, or gel.
 11. The method of claim 10, wherein thecomposition is a solution.
 12. The method of claim 1, further comprisingone or more additional ingredients selected from one or morepreservatives, emulsifiers, conditioning agents, thickening agents,fragrances, moisturizing agents, chelating agents, structuring agents,and colorants.
 13. The method of claim 1, wherein the skin is cleansedprior to application of the composition.
 14. The method of claim 1wherein the composition is applied daily.